Snow White

This year for the Athens Block Party I dressed up as Snow White!

 I set my hair about 2 hours before with roller pins. I did exaggerated fingerwaves at the front and barrel curls at the back, alternating direction with each row. After I combed through it with my fingers it was extremely easy to put up.

I already had the skirt, which is a corduroy circle skirt, and I made the rest the day before-day of. I wore the costume with my Blue Stays and made the bodice + stomacher out of Navy moleskin upholstery stuff (with a piece of yarn to give the yellow line at the front). The sleeves are tiny little puffs of light blue poly lining fabric and tufts of red chiffon. The Ruff is a piece of stiff curtain lining (from the drapes I used for my Ophelia 1910's bodice) with a small channel sewn in to house wire from a white wire hanger. My apple was a ball of yarn with a scrap of green fabric for the leaf

1885-1887 Cotton Corset

Along with working on Harriet's gown, I am going to be doing a living history presentation at the Athens County Historical Society in February. For the living history project, I am going to interpret for a middling class seamstress, as Harriet was. I have no garments suitable for the time period so I have to make them all.

Cotton American Corset, ca1885-1887Metropolitan Museum of Art

I have decided to undertake reproducing an American cotton corset from the 1880s. This corset is on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and I fell in love with it on the first glance. I love the blue tambour-work on the front panels. It is from a little earlier than when Harriet made her gown, but it's safe to assume that being in "rural Ohio", even with Ohio University, that everyday styles were a little behind (probably no more than 5 years) for practicality reasons.

The only measurements given by the Met are the corset being 13.5" long at center back. So I decided to make it my own measurements, which are: 33" Bust, 28"Waist, and 35"Hip. My other corsets bring me down to a 23-24" waist, but it's sometimes uncomfortable because the smallest measurements result in complete closure at center back. I also know I could go a couple inches more (with proper training of course)

So, this corset will keep the same silhouette as the original garment, while allowing there to be some wiggle room for my waist sizes. Here was my process: I decided what size I want my waist to be at its smallest; I chose 22". Then I deducted around 2.5" from all my measurements (with the new waist measurement) to allow for whatever room between my laces that I want to maintain. This made the measurements of my corset to be ridiculously small: 30"B, 19"W, 32.5"H

Pretty Pattern Pieces

 I flat patterned the corset, using Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques and Corsets and Crinolines as visual reference. ^Here are my pattern pieces looking all pretty^

I hadn't been able to find twill fabric in the color I wanted for a good enough price, so I improv'd. I found a pair of $3 Goodwill khakis (size 12) and went from there.

yay $3!

You can kinda see the nestling I did with the pieces.

After the pieces were drawn onto the fabric, I did some embroidery. I did tambour work using a doily hook.

"Tambour"

Then I put some pieces together!

I wasn't able to keep the exact number of bones or cording channels as the original, mainly because I think the one I'm making is significantly smaller than the original. The overall effect of the corset seems to be on the right track, but we'll see when I have the front and back pieces in. My busk hasn't come in yet, and I've not made the grommets in the back piece. But here are some pics of my progress:

Woo back!

The Front!
(and only held together with the waist-tape)

Regency Short Stays, finished.

I recently finished my short stays and I am pretty pleased! This is the first time I've only done an entire hand sewn garment. GO ME!

Pattern: It is a self drafted pattern based off of the Sense and Sensibility "Regency Underthings"
Fabrics: I have no clue what the outside fabric is, but it is like canvas. The binding is the same "canvas-y" fabric. They are lined with muslin.
Other Materials: 14 Zip-ties for boning, hand quilting thread
Time: Patterning, 20 min. Fitting the gussets, 2 1/2 hours. Sewing, MANY MANY HOURS. Binding, 6 hours.
Stitches: Mainly saddle stitches, except the binding.
Cost: $2 mystery fabric + $1 muslin + $1.50 thread + $2 zip ties= $6.50 total.

Here's some more pics and then I'll talk more about it.

Sorry again.

What I like:
It is amazingly comfortable. It is quite effective. It was a relatively fast project (if done by sewing machine). It was relatively easy, being my first run with gussets. It has a pretty back. Some of my stitches turned out fabulous, after I got the hang of it.
What I'm okay with:
It's an odd color of creme. There's some puckeryness around/on the gussets. Ironing took a while to navigate the zip-ties/bones.

What I would do different:
I would have used 3 layers of fabric, to prevent the puckery. Used a fabric that I could identify. I would have made it a little smaller. Make sure that the front was even (it goes slightly downhill on the right side).

What I'm going to do: 
I plan to do some flossing on the stays in a light blue or just a white, but I'm still not sure how accurate that would be?

Some pretty stitches

Thanks for reading!

Regency Short Stays, in progress

A few of my friends and I have decided to have a Regency era Tea Party where we will all make our own outfits and wear them during the tea. On Monday I started on my ensemble, and this is how far I've gotten:

Sorry for the explicit nature of this picture.

I based them off of this picture on Flickr. They are completely hand-stitched, with muslin lining and zip-ties for boning. Pretty good for 3 days of work. I've yet to sew the straps, button holes and binding but I do plan on getting that done this weekend. I was also thinking about adding light blue flossing to make it a little prettier, but not sure how accurate that would be.

My initial goal was to get by with little-to-no boning, and thought that maybe cording would be better, but I found that without the boning it was far to flimsy. The diagonal bones under the bust really make a difference in the shape and support.

This was also my first run when it comes to gussets. They're actually not that hard! I was so surprised after finishing them. The hardest and longest part was the fitting to get the right shape.

I also decided to add some stability to the back of the stays to make it feel better and I think it adds a little more visual interest as well.

So about the flossing/embroidery, does anyone know when it start appearing on corsets/stays?

Civil War Day 2010

Every year my 8th Grade teacher hosts a Civil War day for her students and I have been part of the festivities for the last 4 years. I normally teach on what life was like for those at home during the 1860's while some reenacting friends/classmates of mine teach on the battlefront aspect.We've had the local newspapers interview us before, but this year I finally got some pictures of us in action!

Matt and Dylan

Matt and Dylan talking to the students about loading the gun

The "Reenactment"

The "Charge"

 My portion starts out with some facts about how people lived and whatnot, then I got to the fun part, which was dressing the girls up in the outfits. I dressed the volunteer with all the layers and let them wear the skirt I made a while back. They seemed to really enjoy it.

There's a petticoat after this, but is no picture of it   D:

The Whole Get-up

It's a really fun thing to do, and I hope to do it for many years to come. I just need to get more hoops, skirts and corsets so I can have an army of 1860's gals. YAY

Christmas 2009

I just HAVE to blog about my Christmas presents. I've not been able to stop looking at them since I opened the packages.

1)  Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen
                    This has some really wonderful pictures and patterns.  I can't wait to use them. I'm really eyeing the late 19th century patterns. It's completely worth the full price if you're any kind of costumer.

2)   60 Civil War-Era Fashion Patterns by Kristina Seleshanko
                     This book covers all of the 1860's, not just the American Civil War years. It has a nice collection of women's and children's patterns throughout the era. It's around $12 on Amazon.com, another good buy.

3)   Civil War Ladies: Fashion and Needle-Arts of the Early 1860's
                       It's REALLY HEAVY. A collection of patterns and pictures from Peterson's Magazine 1861-1864. There are many, many great pictures but not a whole lot of instructions/patterns for clothing. It also has piano music from the era and other accessories that would be nice to have with the wardrobe. :)

4)   The Art of Manipulating Fabric by Collette Wolff
                      This one's a wonderful buy. I've not been sewing for a long time, so there are lots of techniques I would never have figured out without this book. Ideas out the wazzoo and lots of pictures make it easy to understand. It's going to pair really well with the next book.....

5)   Reconstruction Era Fashions by Francis Grimble
                         BUY THIS BOOK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There are so many good things about the book, I can't begin to name them all. This is one of my favorite time periods for clothing and it is a nice reference for all sorts of things. It has LOTS AND LOTS of ideas for the surrounding periods. I CAN"T WAIT TO START SEWING!!!!


Other than the books, I got socks and dishes for my hopechest. It was a really nice Christmas overall. I hope you all did too :)
                   

18th Century Stays

I have always wanted an 18th century Stays(as they were not called corsets until the 1800's) and on Friday, I just decided I was going to make'em.

Ingredients:
13 eighteen-inch Heavy Duty Cable ties
52ish fourteen-inch zip ties (regular strength)
1 1/2 yards of canvas material (for me)
1 1/4 pkg of double fold bias tape
thread

Estimated Time:
took me 15ish hours (over 3 days time)

Cost:
$21

I started with this handy dandy site called the Custom Corset Pattern Generator. This site is for Elizabethan corsets, but I had a plan: The basic shape of the Elizabethan stays and the stays from the 1700's are pretty much the same. I put my waist measurement as 2'' smaller than I am, from 25'' waist to 23'' and used the pattern generator for the basics of my pattern and customized my pattern further by looking after this diagram that I found somewhere on the internet. The bone channels were derived from this picture to give a more "18th Century Look". I also added straps, tabs around the bottom, and a rounded bustline to the generated pattern to make it more like the pic.

(if this is your photo and would not like me to use it, tell me, and I'll get rid of it)

My pattern ended up looking like this:


The blue lines are for the heavy duty zip ties, while the red lines are for the regular ones

After cutting out my fabric I sewed the necessary channels for the bones (as indicated above). This didn't take too long, as you're sewing straight lines. But, the hard part came when the ties were ready to be put in... In order to guarantee that the cut cable ties won't pierce through your corset while you're wearing it, they need to be dulled after they're cut. This is most easily accomplished by burning the ends. BUT this stinks something terrible, so by all means do it outside!
After I finished with that horrible ordeal, I inserted them where they are supposed to be.

So my stays were pretty much done by that point, only the bias tape, straps, and eyelets needed to be finished. I sewed the straps on by machine, but the rest I did by hand. It took a long time but I'm glad I did it.

I now have to repair one of the bones from the back of the stays b/c as you can see it popped out of place:






I'm very happy with how this turned out... and fortunate to have had these sites for help:
ElizabethanCostume.net
18th Century Stays
Mara Riley
La Mode Historique

If ya got any questions... just Holler!